Lines we can live with. (Just.) But according to research carried out for Clinique, the problem of uneven pigmentation can be more distressing than wrinkles. The research also identified that from the perspective of a stranger looking at your skin, pigmentation issues ('dark spots', 'age spots', 'sun spots' - or give them their formal name - 'solar lentigines') can increase your perceived age.
The Science Bit: Sun spots, are a direct result of accumulated sun damage, which triggers melanin-producing cells in the skin to lose control and prevent too much pigment as a defense mechanism - on the face and chest, in particular, but also the arms and backs of the hands, where they're harder to conceal. Fairer skins are more susceptible - and against a paler background, age spots show up more, too. So be sure to smooth your morning SPF into the whole face. Many botanicals have proven pigment-lightening actions, including azaleic acid (from barley and wheat), kojic acid (from fermented mushrooms), retinoic acid and retinols (Vitamin A derivatives which are also famously effective against lines), magnesium ascorbyl (a stablised form of Vitamin C) and liquorice. They all work by inhibiting the melanin-producing enzyme tyrosinase.
It is fair to say that tackling the problem is one of The Big Beauty Challenges Of All time - but on the upbeat side there are steps you can take if you're troubles by uneven pigmentation.
Never venture out without and SPF30 or over. And please Start Right Now! This is non-negotiable; it should prevents spots you have from getting any verse, and may actually go some way towards slightly fading them. If you aren't affected by age spots so far? A daily SPF 15 (or higher) will go a long way to preventing their future appearance. Hand creams with a built-in SPF can be super-useful on the backs of hand/ forearms. If you tend to spend a lot of time outdoors, apply regular sunscreen to these vulnerable zones, and remember to repeat after hand-washing.
Wear a hat. If you have sun spots, or seek to avoid their appearance, get yourself a fabulous, stylist collection of fairly tightly-woven straw hats, and keep on a peg near your door/ s, for easy grabbing when you go out on a summer day (not a baseball caps because the brims aren't big enough, plus they miss your ears which are very vulnerable). Sometimes anti-aging solutions can be wonderfully low-tech. Wide-armed, large-lensed sunspecs also help.
Try a specific 'age spot' treatment. A vast amount of cosmetic research dollars is currently being channeled into this area of skincare. Dermatologists in some countries can still prescribe hydroquinone for the problem, but in others this skin lighteners has been banned (research showed that it caused mutation in DNA in animal lab tests). And even in the US where its use is popular, treatment with prescription 4 percent hydroquinone is restricted to a maximum of 12 weeks.
Apply the product very carefully - don't slap it on before reading the directions. Be aware: most of these treatments take some time to kick in, and there are no overnight miracles here. Be aware, too, that some are for all over skin application, and others are literally 'spot-targeted', requiring the use of a cotton bud to apply precisely. Get out your magnifying glasses and read the instructions before throwing out the box. Another tip is to apply thin amount to dark areas atleast one hour before bedtime; this will let it fully absorb into the skin so it won't slide into the pillow. (Although the products are mild, skin lightening ingredients can still sting eyes)
Use make-up to conceal the spot. Once you have got an age spot, what's to do? For a quick fix, turn to make-up. After your primer, dot on a matt, yellow or peach-based corrector or concealer with a little blush, then press it with your finger - don't sweep it on. If needed, top with a cream or liquid foundation or blush on a mineral powder base.
Be careful with fragrance. Certain perfume ingredients - particularly some derived from citrus (such as bergamot) - can interact with sunlight to cause permanent pigmentation problems, in the form of 'staining' of the skin, with dark streaks or patches - typically on the neck and chest, where perfume is spritzed or splashed. In summer, its safest to apply perfume to skin for evening only rather than daytime, or put it where the sun won't strike directly.